Japan
I never in my wildest dreams ever thought I would visit Japan. I always admired the Japanese Carpenters that came to the woodwork shows in this country, UK. The tools from Japan were becoming more popular with woodworkers here. But I knew very little about the Japanese style of woodturning. Just by chance, one day this Fella came into the Gallery. Bill Tingey, we were soon to become good friends. Bill Had lived in Japan for some twenty five years, Himself and his wife Louise ha bought up their family there. Now deciding to come back to UK for their Children`s education. Over time Bill came in the gallery and we would enjoy a good chat. Then one day he came in and said, how would you like to visit Japan. I said, that would be fantastic, not thinking he would arrange the trip. Well he did, Bill got a Grant from the Great Britain Sasakawa Foundation and the cooperation of Japan Airlines, so on March 5th 2005, we were on our way to Heathrow airport. My Daughter, Elizabeth took us to Hereford bus station from there we were on a coach. Arriving at Heathrow around mid-day, early afternoon. I never quite remember, but that day was full of excitement for me. Our flight was in the evening, I am a very nervous flyer, but taking off up into the night sky, looking down on the lights of London was magic. Soon flying east we were out over water, and settling down to a nine hour flight. In no time at all, the stewardess were coming round with drinks, followed by food. I was tired from all our travelling and time hanging about waiting for our evening flight. I did manage to sleep, not for long ,but time enough to feel rested. Nine hours went by, I could see the buildings below when we Came down in Tokyo. That was not the end of our Journey, next we had to get a shuttle bus to take us across the city to Hanada airport, there we would get an internal flight up to Komatsu airport, there we would met with Mr Satake, our Host. Along with Mr Satake was his youngest son. Its now Sunday. There was still a journey of about an hour before we would reach their home in Yamanaka. There we were greeted by the rest of the Family, Mrs Satake, the two other sons and Mr Satake`s Father and Mother. Such a wonderful first evening, such food, so many different taste for me, many flavour`s , a vast variety. My first taste of Japan, and sake. on Monday 7th we were up reasonably early, around 7.00am if I remember right. Mr Satake and his sons had already started work, They normally start very early, around 5.00am. After we had some green tea, Bill and I wondered over to the workshop, This was truly a real eye opener for me. So much difference from us in the west. Their way of working goes back hundreds of years. Their tools, all of which they make them selves, from hot steel bar they work in their forge. Up stairs we went into the lacquring room, where Mr Satake was sat at his bench coating some bowls, in this amazing finish. They would put up to twenty coats of the Lacqurer fininsh on. It was put on wiped off twenty odd times. Put into a drying unit each time between coats, a long proccess. Urushi, this refined sap from a sumac tree (Rhus verniciflua) as been used in Japan for at least 6,000 years. There were towers of rough-turned bowls, standing tall reaching up to the roof, there to dry, and then continue to the lathes for finish turning, many going to another place to be lacqured and some the family would finish. S much to take in, a true family affair. They produced some many items, from chopsticks up to small turned tables. Now in for breakfast, again a real treat. seems like eating is always a big occasion. Our next surprise was a trip to the onsen ( public hot bathes). Yamanaka is famous in Japan for these baths. Warm water bubbles up from far below the earths surface, I say warm, some of it is very hot. The very modern bath houses there in Yamanaka, Have a several baths of different temperature. Some inside ultra modern buildings and some outside, open to the weather. There are the Ladies baths and Gents separate. I enjoyed going there, so nice to see little grandchildren with their Grand parents, washing each others backs, Such a social event, and a lesson in respect. Our day carried on with a trip up into the Mountains, going over a large dam, there holding back a massive volume of water to create Hydro-electricity very green. Our purpose of going up there was to visit a very old house, hundreds of years old, very traditional Japanese with Thatched roof and a fire pit in the middle of the floor, where we sat and drank tea, served up by the lady of the house. A real step back in time. There was snow all a round but the roads were clear. It was funny to see in the middle of the roads, were we have cats eyes, there they had these little nozzels that sprayed out hot steam to keep the roads surface snow and frost free. The next port of call was to a Temple, Very old and set in a forest of tall cedar trees. Seeing the young novice monks so busy, always seemed like they were running from job to job, shouting orders at each other. some sweeping, some polishing woodwork, but always on the go, none stop it was. Yasuhiro, that`s Mr Satake, treated us to a meal out, then back to their home for us to photograph more of the Beautiful work. That evening on our first day was filled with fun, Family and friends made us so welcome, It felt so good to be there. Tuesday 8th our day started with a breakfast of shell fish soup, rice and sweet potatoes. So much difference to what we are accustomed to here in UK. Soon after our work started by Photographing in the workshop, first the layout. the building itself outside and in. A large wooden structure on two floor. Down on the ground floor, heavy equipment, Lathes, many different kinds, some of the old engineering types, their wood lathes so much different than what I was used to. Tools, again different, all the tools for turning they made themselves. There was an area in the workshop. Much like a blacksmiths forge. It had a forge for heating up the metal, Hammers of different shapes and sizes, an anvil, plus a oil dip for tempering . Mostly using round steel bar of different sizes in thickness, they would cut the length needed, then heat up the one end and beat into the required shape. All hook tools, once the shape was to their liking it was sharpened then tempered and sharpened again to a razor finish. These tools cut like an hot knife through butter. More photos all round the ground floor then up into the top floor. This is where all the bowls and other stock is stacked for drying. Because most of the work is end graine turning, they stack them with the open face down in a circular pattern, layer on layer in a cone shape up has high as they can reach. Towers of bowls on this floor there must be some weight. Further on the same floor Yasuhiro was working in his Lacquering This was clinically clean, not a speck of dust. The finishing takes a long time, many coats brushed on and wiped of, then put into a drying cabinet. Drying requires warmth and high humidity for the finish to cure and harden off. Lacquered work is highly resistant, it repels water and is an insulator against heat and electricity. One draw back is, it can cause skin irritation so great care must be taken when using this Lacquer. from that room it was on into his show room. This Gallery was something else. The quality and quantity of work on display was second to nothing I had ever seen. There was floor tables, bowls, trays, boxes, cups, Chopsticks, I could go on, just so much stunningly beautiful work. We finished up there, then Katsumi the middle son took us down into Yamanaka to visit the training centre. This is where they take in some apprentices each year, both boys and girl students. These are taught by some of Japans finest craftsmen. The work of some of the final year students shows just how well they have been taught. We returned back to The Satake family workshop, to take more photos, it was then I tried my hand on their lathes with their tools. So different for me. But under the watchful eye of Yasuhiro I managed to turn a drinking vessel. He later lacquered it for me, It`s one of my little treasures I now have. Next came a trip to the sawmills. They had finished work for the day, but still found time to give us a guided tour, explaining every bit of equipment and processes they go through. Some very open bandsaws with wide blades, cutting disc by hand, Health and safety here in UK would have a field day. But to me they all showed they knew their jobs and got on with it. That evening and after we had been to the Onsen,( baths) Yasuhiro took us to this bar, it was really good. we sat at the bar, and the men on the other side would serve us a beer, and cook a sort of savory pancake on the hot plates, they would take the orders, mixed up to our own choices and once cooked and plated pass it over for us to enjoy. I was so full by the end of that evening, I slept like a log. end of another wonderful day. Wednesday 9th. The day started at 7.30am with a trip to the Onsen (baths) every town should have one, I don`t think I ever felt so clean and fresh each day. Getting back to The Satake home, breakfast was layed out for us. It was areal treat. Bill photographed the table setting, that picture still comes to my mind every time I am talking or writing things like this. After breakfast I managed to get out for a little walk, not to far, but just close around some of the streets looking at the different styles of Buildings, Some very modern, but many older more traditional ones, these i liked best. Wood is used a lot in Japan. I was only out about five or ten minutes, then it was another trip to the sawmills. This time they were in full swing, Huge log loaded on a large bandmill. A big difference in the method of cutting. Most mills here in UK. Mount the logs to be cut along the grain, that`s tree length. Here they were across the bench. a different type of carriage. With the log running through the saw, Like cutting firewood logs. Each section cut of was about 6" - 7" long. Then the flat round disc was marked out in rings of what size was wanted. working around the edge first to wards the heart of each log ring, Disposing of the heart wood. The next job, these rings would be passed along to a man working on a Table bandsaw, carrying a 4" wide blade. Humping these heavy ring bits up onto this table looked dangerous enough for me , let alone cut each one into blanks ready for the copy lathes further down the workshop. Each blank was put into a big basket on wheels. once full this was taken by a young lady, on to the first lathe. There this young lady would start, Each block was mounted in a very large four jaw engineers chuck, With one pull of a handle the strong sharp blade took the center from this block, One after another this girl would take a block center out and place into the next waiting trolley basket. Next another girl would take that trolley once it was full onto her lathe. This time holding each block by placing the jaws inside the open end, then with one pull of the cutting knife the out side of the bowl was formed. These were then stacked ready to go out to one of the many families of Wood turners working in and around Yamanaka. The production of bowls that are turned to go off to be lacquered is amazing thousands each year. In the afternoon it was a trip off to Kanasawa, a journey of around an hour, Interesting running through areas of paddy fields, and small villages. On our way we stopped off to visit a cabinet makers workshop. here he and his workers made very high class furniture, that would cost thousands of Yen. The quality of work and materials used was the very best. They had a small showroom with some beautiful pieces in, also some pottery from someone else. Two nice little saki cups caught my eye, I like these so bought them to remind me of our visit. On now to Kanasawa, a city about the size of Cardiff I was told. First stop the Modern museum, really interesting, lots about technology . One thing i really liked was a living wall, this was about thirty foot long and may be fifteen foot high, It was covered in plants of all description, and running water down over the face. Really amazing all the colours and some small birds weaving in and out, Truly a living wall. At the Museum we met up with Yuuka san, a young lady that organised this trip for us.This was a long day, avisit next to Gardens, the fish market, that was a sight worth seeing then to a very old part, with wooden buildings, shops and tea rooms, there we enjoyed afternoon tea and cakes, yummy. Time now for our journey back, I was felling quite tired, so managed a little nap in the car. That evening more lovely food, and saki, I did not drink to much, Its very strong. An early night, we would be getting up at 3.00am to travel up through the Mountains and onto Gifu. There to see how a big timber sale is run In Japan. Thats my bit for today, Carry on tomorrow.